A new appointment-only archive showroom in Paris is drawing attention for its tightly focused selection of rare designer clothing, according to a profile from Vogue. Called 1988, the space combines vintage retail with a lending model aimed at stylists, designers and collectors.
Why 1988
The name refers to the birth year of its founders, Maël Larcher (born Lee Young-Kyoon) and Xiaoyu Jiang, who are married. It also marks a notable year in fashion: Miuccia Prada presented her first women’s ready-to-wear collection, Helmut Lang was an established independent designer in Vienna, and Raf Simons was 20 and studying industrial and furniture design. Those three designers are central to the showroom’s holdings.
The space and the stock
Since mid-June, the couple have welcomed visitors to a light-filled space above the Quai des Grands Augustins, a few hundred feet from Notre Dame. The inventory totals around 2,000 pieces, mixing high-end designer items with American vintage, all available to rent or buy.
Highlights include early Lang jackets with Tyrolean embellishments that the owners are reluctant to sell, and a Phoebe Philo Yves Klein Blue body-print dress from Celine’s spring 2017 collection that hangs on the wall like artwork. Larcher also owns a pair of Malcolm McLaren trousers given to him by Kim Jones. Beyond the main trio, the racks include an early Christophe Lemaire workwear jacket, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus shorts covered in green sequins, a Simons-era Jil Sander cardigan and a Louis Vuitton x Rei Kawakubo bag. The American vintage selection includes labels dating to the 1930s, such as Sweet-Or, as well as Russell, Flagg, Champion and Mayo Spruce from the 1950s and 1960s.
From personal archive to resource
Larcher spent ten years at Dior Homme, first as an intern under Kris Van Assche and then as a designer in Kim Jones’s studio, continuing into Jonathan Anderson’s first season. He studied at ESMOD, where he met Jiang, who came to Paris to study marketing and says fashion opened her eyes.
The collection grew out of their own wardrobes and shared fascinations. Larcher began lending pieces to stylists and designer friends, then renting them, and this year the pair began treating it as a business. He compares the model to borrowing a library book, with clients studying fabric, color, buttons or shape. The couple say they have noticed rented pieces appearing to inform new runway designs, mainly in menswear, and they say they are proud to serve as a resource while staying discreet on specifics.
Sourcing and storytelling
They are looking for more Lang from his Austrian years, particularly embroidered pieces, and more Simons. They buy through a network of online collectors and vendors in Japan, preferring known sellers because of the risk of fakes. Rental items are marked with cedarwood flowers on the hanger, and each tag carries detailed information. Their Instagram, with photography by Mathieu Rainaud, features items such as a Lang blazer from fall 1980 and a Simons scuba suit from fall 2004.
During Fashion Week, the showroom will relax its appointment-only rule and display vintage furniture curated by Shanghai store Habiter, part of a goal to collaborate with specialist curators and collectors.
Source: vogue.com
